Text Version: Next stop – New Zealand. Known as the capital of adventure tourism, there is no shortage of activities to fill the days. And with 30% of the country designated as national parks or reserves, it is renowned for its walking trails.

Similar in size to the UK, it was more manageable to explore the country by car. We decided to focus on the north part of the South Island during our two weeks. Flying into Christchurch, we quickly made our way north to the coastal town of Kaikoura. A great spot for whale watching, Kaikoura also offers some spectacular sea and mountain views on foot.

We continued north to the small town of Renwick, which sits in the heart of the Marlborough wine region. Here we traded in the car for bikes and sampled some of their finest wines.

Back in the car we followed the windy roads through the Marlborough Sounds to the Queen Charlotte Track. Located at the very top of the island, we hiked a portion of the 44-mile trail. We decided to combine more hiking with kayaking, and the Abel Tasman National Park was a great place to do so. Known for its golden beaches, granite cliffs, and mild climate, the coastal track is world-famous.

We completed our exploration of New Zealand by car and foot. Heading west through Buller Gorge to Cape Fowlwind, we made our down to Punakaiki, famous for its blowholes and pancake rocks. And our drive back to Christchurch took us over Arthur’s Pass and the Southern Alps – a beautiful way to close this chapter of our trip.

You can read more about our experience in individual New Zealand posts.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

We were excited to see New Zealand before we even landed. From the sky we could see the crystal blue waters, the glistening white mountaintops, and the vast green pastures of the beautiful South Island. We were ready to get going.

New Zealand is much smaller and easier to travel around than Australia, so we decided to higher a car so we could take our time exploring the South Island. New Zealand is so small in populace (4 million people) that even their cities have a small town feel to them. We arrived in Christchurch late afternoon, so after finding a place to stay, our next task was to find some food and wander the quiet streets.

Our one planned activity in Christchurch was the next morning. Throughout New Zealand it is common to find fish hook bone carvings as necklaces – a Maori tradition dating back thousands of years with the purpose of actually fishing with them. Instead of buying one, we were to make our own.

We arrived at The Bone Dude’s studio at 9am and by noon, we had our very own bone carving (see slideshow).

Right after finishing, we hit the road for our next stop – the coastal town of Kaikoura. The drive up offered some brilliant scenery – green, rolling hills that seemed to be almost ocean-like, appearing as large swells across the land with thousands of sheep dotting the land like whitecaps. We’d turn a corner and come across forests of yellow-flowered trees bursting brightly like the sun appearing from behind the sun. And as we started to approach Kaikoura, the brilliant blue waters flowed into site.

As beautiful of a site New Zealand was from the air, it was even better to be on land.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

New Zealand is a mecca of outdoor activities and Kaikoura would be our first experience with it.  We arrived on a cloudy afternoon into this small coastal town, known for their whale watching tours and opportunities to swim with the dolphins.  But we opted to explore the peninsula by foot.  And the site of clear blue skies the following morning offering pristine views of the rising foothills was a great start.

We headed to the beginning of the peninsula to have a look at the local seal colony before heading up and around the top.  For miles all you could see were views of the water and pasturelands, which we were walking through.  At points we had to wait for the local “cow-wow” to end their meeting at one of the steps that take you up and over to the next field before proceeding.

The views all around were gorgeous and there was no better way to end our morning hike than with a hearty lunch of crayfish at the roadside bbq.  This “outside restaurant” is four roadside tables and a tow-able trailer kitchen grilling up fresh seafood.  And as Kaikoura in Maori means “food” (Kai) – “crayfish” (koura) we had to try the local delicacy.

And before you knew it we were on the road again to our next destination – Renwick, in the heart of the Marlborough wine country.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

The beautiful blue skies followed us up the coast as we made our way to the small town of Renwick. Many people who travel to the Marlborough wine country will base their wine tours out of the much larger town of Blenheim. But as Renwick literally sits in the center of the wineries, we thought it was much better suited for our needs.

There aren’t as many options for accommodation in Renwick but by far the most popular choice is Watson’s Way Backpackers. They offer a variety of sleeping options – from campsites and campervan parking to dormitory style rooms and private en suites. They also have a large kitchen and grill as well as picnic areas and a wraparound porch.

We spent our afternoon doing chores such as laundry and food shopping. After relying on restaurants for most of our meals we were ready for some home cooked burgers. And we had to load up on cheese and crackers for our wine tasting the next day.

Watson’s Way also rents bicycles for touring the wineries, and that was how we were going to get around. Unfortunately the blue skies that were to follow from the day before failed to keep their promise, and so we had a cloudy day ahead of us. But luckily the few sprinkles we did have did not turn into heavier rain. And so we set off on our self-guided tour.

The Marlborough region is known for their whites – particularly their sauvignon blancs – but the cool climate has also been beneficial for producing some very fine pinot noir. We were ready to sample them all.

That day we biked approximately 15km. (9.3 miles) and visited five wineries – mostly family owned. Forrest Estates – Framingham – Nautilus Estate – Wairau River – and Huia. And of course we picked up a few bottles along the way and enjoyed one over a delicious steak dinner back at Watson’s Way.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

We had a few days before we needed to make our way to the Nelson area for our Abel Tasman experience, so we decided to explore the Queen Charlotte Sound located in the Marlborough Sounds. This area offers access to the North Island via ferries from Picton to Wellington. And it also offers some beautiful hikes and kayaking.

The Queen Charlotte Track stretches 71km (44 miles) and passes through coastal forest and pastures. Along the way are various campsites and lodges, many only accessible by ferry or foot. If you are doing the entire track, or even multi-day hikes, you can even send your gear ahead to your next lodging via water taxi.

We drove the windy roads towards the top of the sound to stay at Punga Cove Resort. Nestled in Punga Cove with views of Mt. Stokes and Mt. Furneaux, the property offered everything from backpacker cabins to private A-Frame chalets. We stayed in the lodge, which hosted several bedrooms with a shared living space and kitchen. A nice way to have a private room and to meet some fellow hikers.

The next day for our hike we couldn’t have asked for a better day. We had clear skies all along as we made our way from Punga Cover to Resolution Bay. The 15km hike winded around the water through forest and pastures – breathtaking views all around. Four hours later the site of Furneaux Lodge at our final destination was a welcome one as we were ready for a hearty meal.

We then relaxed by the waterside as we awaited our water taxi back to Punga Cove and a much deserved beer on the docks.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

Nelson, 1995 – the sunniest place in all of New Zealand. It failed to live up to that title the last time I was here as it down poured for three days straight. On the fourth day, the seas were deemed too rough to kayak the Abel Tasman, as we stood on the shoreline with paddles in our hands and frowns on our faces.

Nelson, 2007 – as we pulled into town the day before to overcast skies and light drizzle, I was apprehensive that Nelson would ever live up to its moniker in my presence. And I was nervous about our three-day kayaking/hiking experience we were to set out for today. As I awoke in our hotel in Motueka (which lives close to Abel Tasman National Park) blue skies did greet us on my birthday morning. I could only hope it would last.

There are a variety of ways to explore Abel Tasman – the most popular being by kayak or foot. And you can do it in different spans of time – from a one-day hike of just a portion to a combination of day hikes and kayaking. Likewise, you can do it on your own, staying at campsites or DOC huts, or go with a tour operator.

We decided to splurge and went with Abel Tasman Wilson’s Experience – the only tour operator that has actual lodging in the park. There are still a few privately owned homes that were located in the park before it became a National Park in 1942. And the Wilson family has had land dating back to the 1850’s. What were once vacation homes turned slowly into a business as people were constantly asking to visit, and once there, needing something to do! Plus, access to most of the park is only available by foot or boat, so a shuttle business was also born.

Twelve of us started on this excursion – nine of us would be kayaking this first day and three would be hiking. As we stood on the shores of Marahau Bay, a large tidal estuary and the launching point for most kayak trips, our guides Kether and Joel informed us that our clear day came with some pretty strong winds. This made the sea a bit rough, so we had to paddle pretty hard to stay stable through the swells and white caps.

A few rogue waves crashed directly on top of the kayak and all I could think was how this was a great way to test the new dry bags we purchased for the camera gear – all of which sat strapped right onto the bungy, exposed to all the elements.

Luckily the winds were at least to our backs, so we arrived at our lunch spot much earlier than planned. We spent the next couple of hours enjoying lunch on the golden sands of Te Pukatea Bay and hiking around Pitt Head. Then we were off for a short paddle around to Anchorage Bay and then onto our lodging in Torrent Bay. All totaled we kayaked 12 km. that day.

Shortly after our arrival the three hikers showed up with their guide, Richard, and we all enjoyed some appetizers and drinks over good conversation before a delicious dinner. Later we all discovered our love for the HBO show, “Flight of the Conchords,” about two New Zealand folk singers trying to make it in NYC. It’s funny to think how in this small group of travelers from all different countries and backgrounds we all appreciate this quirky little comedy. And a couple from the UK spotted Jemaine and Brett walking the streets of Wellington just two days before! They were the envy of the group.

The next morning we gained two kayakers from the hiking group for the first portion of the day. We paddled out under mostly cloudy skies and some pretty big swells. We had to paddle pretty hard through Bark Bay before circling the Tonga Island Seal Colony. Most of the seals seemed to be in sleep mode – perhaps they were resting up for the mating season, which is just ahead.

As we turned into Onetahuti Bay we faced some pretty strong head winds in addition to the swells, just a reminder that we were truly in a sea. And even though we kayaked just half as far as our first day, it was much more of an effort. This would be our lunch spot, as well as the place we would say farewell to five of our party plus the kayaks. From here on out we would be on foot until the next day.

When doing the coastal track, you need to time the hikes with the tides. And even during low tide you may be required to wade through some water. And that was what we found at the top of the beach. We waited for a bit for the tide to go out a bit further but decided to give it a go once the level at its deepest came about mid-thigh. Then Kether guided the seven of us remaining up and through some beautiful vegetation, explaining along the way the different flora, most of it introduced to New Zealand by early settlers.

That night we spent at the Meadowbank Homestead and had the pleasure of meeting John Wilson, patriarch of the clan. He was working on some new construction preparing for the busy season ahead and he shared with us some great history of the land and its development. The property is actually from his wife’s side, and the business is truly a family one, with all the children, their partners, and even grandchildren working at some point.

Our third and final day had us hiking a few kilometers through forest and onto Waiharakeke Beach where we followed the coast to our final stop, Totaranui Bay. From here our water taxi took us on a two-hour journey back down so we could have a different view from the water. This time the seals were much more active and even feeling frisky.

We disembarked in Kaiteri, just a few kilometers down from where we started. And here we would say goodbye to our Abel Tasman experience. We faced some challenging seas that gave us a great workout, enjoyed the company of our fellow kayakers and hikers, and loved every minute of this beautiful park.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

Michael and I traveled to New Zealand as part of our 2007 career break. The following is an excerpt from our travel blog.

It’s the beginning of summer in New Zealand, but the weather has been more spring-like. For every clear day we’ve had a day of cloudy skies. But I think it is still the best time to travel here, as it’s not quite the busy season. So you feel like you almost have places to yourself, including the Abel Tasman, which can be quite the highway, but we had quiet trails.

In the summer months, when all of New Zealand is on break, you need to book accommodation and tours well in advance. That would not have worked well for the way we’ve been traveling – playing it by ear and never booking anything in advance.

This was one of those perfectly sunny days and we decided to take it a bit easy after the Abel Tasman. We returned to Marahau (where we launched our kayaks) for breakfast and a morning hike. Then down to Kaiteri for some rest on the beach – a perfect spot to relax and read. We even caught some boat races. Then onto Nelson, to wander the art galleries and craft shops. And we ended the day with dinner at a waterside restaurant. A nice way to spend a summer day.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

For our last two full days in New Zealand we decided to take our time driving back to Christchurch, taking in our last views of the gorgeous landscape.  From Nelson we drove inland to reach the West Coast, stopping in Buller Gorge to traverse New Zealand’s longest swing bridge.

Our first stop on the coast was Westport and Cape Fowlwind, where we watched the local seals frolick about.  From here it was short drive to our stopping point – Punakaiki, famous for their Pancake Rocks and blowholes.  We had one of those sunny days for the first part of our drive, so it was no wonder we woke up to grey.  But it’s amazing how the weather and lighting can really change the mood of the place.  And even though it was way past high tide, the blowholes were really kicking it up at Punakaiki.

As we made our way down before turning inland to cross over Arthur’s Pass back to Christchurch, I hoped what I read in my guidebook was true, that if it’s cloudy on one side of the pass chances were it would be sunny on the other.  I didn’t want us to miss out on the spectacular views of the Southern Alps.  And as soon as we began our ascent from the pastures and plains, the clouds did give way to clear skies and snow-capped peaks.

Every turn brought an even more beautiful view and as I turned back for one last glimpse of the mountains before descending back into the clouds, I thought how this was a perfect way to end out tine in New Zealand.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

Text Version: Our first destination was Australia.  Approximately the same size as the United States, with only 7% of the population, most of the landscape is made up of arid desert. Not surprisingly, the majority of the residents live along the 22,000 miles of coastline where most tourists tend to flock as well.

With just three weeks we wanted to make the most of our time and experience as much diversity as possible – from cities and seas to sand dunes and deserts.

Starting in Sydney, we spent the initial few days recovering from our jetlag and exploring the city by foot and boat. Moving up the coast, we took in some whale watching in Hervey Bay before setting off for a 2-day tour of Fraser Island. As the worlds’ largest sand dune, Fraser Island’s rainforests and 75 mile coastline is best explored by 4-wheel drive.

Further North in Queensland, we set sail from Airlie Beach for the Whitsunday Islands. On this trip, we spent 3 days sailing, diving and snorkeling Australia’s most expansive reefs. As an added treat, we were able to encounter the Great Barrier Reef up close and personal.

Having our fill of the beautiful blue seas, we decided to head inland and explore the red desert. Ayers Rock, otherwise known as Uluru, is the spiritual center for the local Aborigines, and to be in its presence is truly magical. Just 30 miles to the west are the Olgas. Also known as Kata Tjuta, which means many heads, the enormity of the Olgas is not lost in this vast barren region.

Before we knew it, our time in Australia was coming to a close, but not before a little excitement in Melbourne. Having arrived just in time for the spring racing season we got to partake in a long-standing tradition – the Melbourne Cup.

With so much to offer, Australia definitely kept us on the move.

You can read more about our experience in individual Australia posts.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

We lasted about four hours our first day in Sydney.  By the time we got to our hotel and freshened up, it was around 2pm Sydney time.  But for our bodies, it was midnight.  So we decided to soldier through the day and hopefully into the night to fight off jet lag.  Walking from our hotel in the Kings Cross-Darlinghurst section of Sydney, we were reminded of the rolling streets of Haight-Ashbury in San Francisco.  And as we strolled into Pitt St. in the City Center, we felt as if we were walking the mall-like streets of Chicago.

Sightseeing wasn’t really on our agenda, as we were in search of a cell phone to use domestically and other miscellaneous items.  But I wanted Michael to have his first look of the famed Opera House and Sydney Harbour.  As we made our way into Circular Quay, he was a bit quiet.  He admitted it wasn’t quite the view he expected.  But what he has seen in photos is from a much different angle – usually showing the Opera House surrounded by a large body of water with the Harbour Bridge in the background.  It wouldn’t be until the next day that he had that view, but from Circular Quay, the Opera House appeared to him as a “big thing in a little harbor.”

We celebrated our first day with some beers before heading back to the hotel to freshen up for dinner.  We were back 10 minutes before we passed out.  It was 6pm.  Thankfully we decided to stay at a new boutique hotel as we wanted to be comfortable after the long travel.  Their King-sized bed was just what we needed after “sleeping” in airplane seats.  We needed to be well rested to really tackle the city on our first full day.

The next day we were up bright and early – at 3am.  Damn jet lag.  We decided to occupy ourselves by doing some internet research for our next destination – Fraser Island.  But knowing we had a full day ahead of us, we forcefully tried to get some more shut eye and wake up at a more decent hour.  By 6:30am, we couldn’t fight it anymore, so we headed out for a much needed breakfast.

Our neighborhood is filled with cute cafes, so it wasn’t too difficult to find a place.  And as soon as we walked into Tigerbreakers to the sounds of Jack Johnson, I knew we found the perfect spot.  And to fuel up on beans and toast (for me) and an omelet (for Michael) was a great way to start the day.

We decided to head back down to Circular Quay but this time through the Royal Botanic Gardens.  We headed down through Hyde Park, past St. Mary’s Cathedral and onto Art Gallery Road.  We leisurely strolled amongst the sounds of the magpies mocking each other and parakeets swooping about.  And through the trees and sprawling hills rose the buildings of City Center.

Once in the Botanic Gardens, we passed some beautiful South Pacific plant life before entering the domain of the flying foxes.  The resident colony spend their day hanging about the Gardens before making their way out at dusk.  But we didn’t wait to leave with them as we still had much more to see.

By the time we reached the tip of the Gardens, Michael had his view of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge.  But it wouldn’t be the last.  We decided to take one of the many harbour cruises offered in Circular Quay.

As we looped around the Opera House and noticed the various office workers amongst the tourists, we wondered if they got annoyed as much as we do navigating through the throngs in Times Square and Rock Center on the way to work.  But the crowds weren’t nearly as bad in Sydney and even the locals have an easy-going nature to them.

We decided on the Sydney Explorer, which allowed us to get on and off at various stops.  As we pulled away, we got some more expansive views of the Harbor and from our lunch spot in Watsons Bay.  City Center seemed worlds away.

As we made it back into Circular Quay, we were proud that we were still going strong.  So we headed to the Rocks on the western side of the cove – a historic precinct with narrow cobbled streets, colonial buildings and pubs.  So you can probably guess where we ended up.  The Observer Hotel was a good place to celebrate with a beer and a great place to meet up with some friends.  Ciaran and I volunteered together in Peru and it was fun rehashing stories together.  And Michael had an old Hamptons roommate who returned to Sydney, so we all had some good laughs over old tales.  The plan was to continue on to dinner, but in the cab, jet lag struck again and we needed to abandon that plan.

Two days and we had yet to have dinner in Sydney.  But we couldn’t ignore our bodies.

Saturday we decided to be a bit more low-key.  We headed out to Bondi Beach for the day with Ciaran and his buddy Dave.  It was a beautiful spring weekend yet we practically had the place to ourselves.  We picnicked on the beach with some delicious fish and chips and watched the hordes of surfers skirt about the waves.  Between the cold water and the stinging blue bottles crashing ashore, wearing a wet suit seemed the only sane way to enter the ocean.

After relaxing on the beach we decided to find a nice roof deck to continue our shore gazing over some beers. Some more friends of Ciaran joined us and it was great to share some laughs.  One of my favorite things about traveling is the characters you meet along the way and to hear other perspectives outside of those back home.

And in addition – we actually made it to dinner.  Back in our neighborhood in Sydney, we grabbed a quick bite with Ciaran before packing it in for the night.  Another full day behind us and an other one in our sites.  We had an early morning the next day as we would head up the coast.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

It was going to be a hot one in Sydney, with temperatures expected to be in the mid 30’sC (90’sF).  But it was still relatively comfortable as we made our way to the airport to catch our flight to Hervey Bay.  It was just an hour and 15 minute flight up the coast, but as we began our descent, we could see it would be much different weather from Sydney as we passed through thick clouds.

Hervey Bay is actually made up of five villages and stretches 16km along the coast, about 6 hours north of Brisbane.  During the months of August through October, Hervey Bay is well visited by tourists interested in seeing the humpback whales that migrate through the bay.  They’ll spend months here rearing their calves until they are fit to swim south to the Antarctic.  We arrived at the tale end of their migration but still hoped to catch them during our afternoon.

The males had already left the bay, and they are the ones that tend to give more of a show to spectators.  Still, we made our way out on the Whalesong.  The clouds from the morning still lingered and even turned into on and off rain.  But once out at sea, we were able to chase the sun as well.

Hervey Bey also offers easy access to Fraser Island, as it sits right off the coast.  We made our way up the western side of the island in search of some whales.  We mainly encountered moms feeding their calves or just resting on this lazy Sunday.  But we couldn’t be too disappointed as it was still an amazing experience.  And the real purpose for our visit to the area lay just off board- Fraser Island.  Tomorrow we would be heading their for a two-day adventure.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

When planning our travel destinations, Michael said that the places he wanted to go to the most were Australia and New Zealand.  And even though I had traveled through both countries before, I was happy to go back to revisit.  And I wanted to take advantage of my return to see things I hadn’t before.  Fraser Island was one of them.

It is said that Fraser Island is the world’s largest sand island, stretching 120kms (75 miles) long and made up of 100% sand over thousands of years of drifts.  It’s hard to imagine that it really is all sand, as the island is lush with woodlands and rain forests, as well as fresh water lakes.  And the only way to explore all of these wonders is by four-wheel drive.

There are several options for getting around by 4WD: rent your own vehicle (which allows you more access but can be risky if you don’t know tides or get stuck) – join a group of backpackers in a shared vehicle (but you’ll be cramped in an uncomfortable position and kept up all night by their partying) – or join a large 4WD bus with 40+ people (which, although, can be more comfortable but is less intimate).

We opted to go with the Fraser Experience – a small group tour operator that offers the comforts of a spacious 4WD vehicle but the intimacy of a smaller group.  Our group was made up of 13, plus our driver Jason, and we represented the States, France, Scotland, England and Australia.  Immediately we knew we were in for an adventure as Jason quickly made it known his extensive experience traversing the island.

And he certainly shared a number of stories with us.  One thing is for sure – Aussies know how to spin a yarn and Jason was no exception – turning even the most boring details, such as the history of a shipwreck on the island, into a long, drawn out yet humorously entertaining story.

As we crossed over on the ferry from Rainbow Beach, the weather looked daunting, as the clouds from the day before still lingered.  But it wouldn’t matter much, as we were to explore the inner portion of the island that day, which is made up of the aforementioned vegetation.  When the blue skies did appear, the large trees and forest vegetation would obstruct it.  But it was certainly welcome as we took a nice dip in the fresh waters of Lake McKenzie before lunch.  Even though Fraser Island is surrounded by water, the dangerous currents and deadly sharks make it impossible to enter along the shoreline.  But Fraser Island also offers numerous fresh water lakes, like Lake McKenzie, which is a perfect respite with its crystal clear water and pristine white sand.

After spending the afternoon exploring the rain forests by foot, we navigated the slowly shrinking beach front, trying to make it back to camp before the high tide took away our route.  There are several resorts and camp sites on Fraser Island, but we were to stay in Dilli Village, which is made up of a series of small cabins.

With the birds waking us up bright and early at 4:30am, the blue skies were a great sign that we had reserved the right day for driving up the coastline.  For miles all we could see were crashing waves on the beach and various fisherman having their go at the sea.  Along the way we stopped at the shipwreck, Maheno, which was once a luxury vessel and also served as a floating hospital during World War I.  After a recession hit Australia, it was sold to a Japanese company but was washed ashore here during a typhoon as it was being towed to Japan.

We also stopped at the Pinnacles, which is a sand formation made up of various layers of colors.  Jason offered us the scientific and Aboriginal versions of their creation.  But I liked the one a former passenger came up with: it was God’s paint palette after he finished painting the Earth.  And although I’m not a believer in creationism, I liked the imagination behind the idea, as it did appear to be like a painters palette, with the various colors appearing under the chipped colors above.

But our final destination this day would be Indian Head – a rock formation towards the top of the island, that once scaled, offered glorious views.  From atop we spotted dolphins, rays and manatees in the clear waters below.  After a delicious lunch, we had a last dip in another crystal clear water source – this time a creek.

But before long we were off, as we would be fighting the high tide again as we made our way down to the ferry landing and our departure point.  It was definitely a full two days and well worth a return trip to Australia.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

Another bright and early day as we set off from the Hervey Bay area and headed south to Brisbane via train.  Four hours later and we were awaiting our flight north to Proserpine.  From there a shuttle bus took us to Airlie Beach.  And then we made our way by foot to Abel Point Marina.  By sunset we were on a catamaran and ready to set sail for the Whitsunday Islands.  After so much movement in our first week, we were looking forward to anchoring ourselves in one spot for three days – even if our home was moving itself.

One of my favorite experiences from my last visit was sailing the Whitsundays, and I wanted Michael to experience it as well.  And Michael was really looking forward to diving the Great Barrier Reef.  With our tight schedule, we were uncertain if we could squeeze both in, but luckily our boat, the Pacific Star, cruised the Whitsundays and motored out to the outer reef for diving and snorkeling.  Perfectly timed.  Now we hoped the weather would cooperate.

As we set out at night to a nearly full moon, we sipped rum as we searched the sky for stars.  Michael was determined to drink just rum and didn’t let the “no bottles” rule get in his way.  Nothing like a good 1.5 liter plastic water bottle for filling up with Bundaberg rum.

We woke up to a glorious morning at Whitsunday Island, the largest island in the Whitsunday group.  We anchored in Tongue Bay and hiked up for a beautiful view of Hill Inlet.  Then down to the north end of Whitehaven Beach – otherwise known as Betty Beach.  The 6.7km stretch of sand most recognized in photos as Whitehaven Beach rested to our south.  But we still enjoyed the pure white sand and crystal clear waters that surrounded us.  After a few hours we were back on the boat and enjoyed a delicious lunch as we motored our way out to Bait Reef for snorkeling – the Whitsundays barely visible in the distance.

As we woke up the next morning, our views were pure reef, water and sky.  Not a cloud or land mass in sight.  We were certainly in reef territory.  Shane, our captain, knew of a perfect reef that was last visited by someone else over eight years before.  Nicknamed “Club 21” reef, this is where Michael would have his first diving experience.

For the afternoon, we headed to Nett Reef. As the tide was low, it was fantastic for snorkeling as we could get up nice and close to the coral and fish.  And we stayed here so that the certified divers, including Michael, could have a go at night diving under a full moon.

We motored through the night so that we could make it back to Hayman Island in the Whitsundays for our last day of diving and snorkeling.  Our third and final day on the Pacific Star was just as beautiful as the first two.  And as we pulled back into the marina, our thoughts looked ahead to a good shower, a steady bed, and a cold beer.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

Well over a week into our trip and constantly on the move, we decided to stay put for an extra day in Airlie Beach after our boat trip to unwind and decompress.

Airlie Beach is the launching pad for the popular Whitsundays, so it also offers a great cross-section of travelers through Australia.  By walking along the coastal Esplanade or grabbing a beer in one of the many establishments, you encounter travelers from all different backgrounds.  There are certainly a large number of backpackers, making their way up and down the coast by bus or in one of the many campervans available for rental.  But you also have retirees and general vacationers who are on holiday for an extended time.

And that is the thing that still surprises Michael – that it is common for other people around the world to take three or four week vacations.  And another thing that surprises him is the lack of Americans we’ve encountered.  So far we’ve only met one American couple and they were recently retired.  So given the fact that it is somewhat unheard of for people from the States to take extended vacations, the lack of Americans isn’t that shocking.  I’ve rarely run into any during any of my extended travels.

Our break in Airlie was much needed, and even though there isn’t much to do but party or set sail, we still enjoyed relaxing along the water and taking in some of the live music in the parks.  And before we knew it, we would be in a car and on our way up the coast.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

Our drive up the coast to Kuranda was a long one, but it was the only way for us to make our way north in order to catch our flight out on Wednesday from Cairns to Ayers Rock.

Kuranda is a small mountain village in the rainforest about 30km outside of the tourist city of Cairns (another launching pad for the Great Barrier Reef).  To get there involves driving up a very steep and windy road – one in which the locals aren’t afraid to zoom around.

Last time I was here, we stayed with Pat and Lyle Greene for about a week.  Lyle is a cousin of my sister-in-law’s mother, and although they have been in Australia for decades, they still ooze southern hospitality.  Since my last visit, they have turned their rainforest retreat into a lovely bed and breakfast, so we decided to pay them a visit. (Kuranda Bed & Breakfast)

We only had one day in the area, so we set off in the morning – our first stop, the Village of Kuranda and all of its cute shops.  It didn’t take long to explore, we were then off to Port Douglas up the coastline for lunch along the water.  After a stroll along the beach, we set off for Mossman Gorge, a boulder-strewn river valley in the southern section of Daintree National Park.  Here we hiked through the rainforest before making our way back to Kuranda.

It was a short visit but lovely to catch up with Pat and Lyle before heading off to Ayers Rock and the Red Center.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

We left the blue coast for the red center as we made our way to Ayers Rock and the Olgas.  Known as Uluru and Kata Tjuta by the local Aborigines, the Anangu (meaning “people”), this land was given back to them in 1985.  Under the agreement, they in turn leased the land back to the Federal Government for 99 years and together they manage it.

Many people bypass visiting this area on a trip to Australia, but I think it’s the most magical and significant place to go in the country.  The glowing red of the sand and rocks is stunning and the vastness of this World Heritage Site is so impressive.  And to think that these land masses began to form over 550 million years ago really makes you thinks about your time and place in this world.

As it is literally in the middle of nowhere, options for accommodation are limited to the Ayers Rock Resort, also referred to as Yulara.  Within the resort are a variety of options, from a high-end luxury hotel to campsites.  We stayed at the Outback Pioneer Hotel & Lodge, which offers dormitory style lodging as well as private rooms.  And their dining options include an outdoor BBQ area.  You can bring in your own food or purchase meat, including steak, chicken, kangaroo, emu and even crocodile, from their BBQ Bar and grill it up yourself while being entertained by local musicians.

But it’s not about the accommodation – it’s about visiting Uluru and Kata Tjuta.  They are always in view from the various lookouts at Yulara, but there are also a variety of tour operators that can bring you up close.  From large tour buses to the back of a Harley, you can visit Uluru and Kata Tjuta from sunrise to sunset.  We decided to do a few different tours with a small tour operator – Discovery Ecotours.

Their tours are generally no more than 15 people and their guides are trained by the local Anangu, so they can relay stories and folklore straight from the “keeper of the story.”  Only stories taught to Anangu children can be relayed to non-Anangu as even in their culture certain knowledge is only gained as they pass through higher levels of standing.

We started on our arrival day with an afternoon trip out to Kata Tjuta, which means “many heads” in Anangu.  It is comprised of 36 domes, with the highest reaching 546 meters. Kata Tjuta is a sacred site for Anangu men, and as such, their women are not allowed to go there.  And the knowledge of this site is not shared with non-Anangu.  Still, standing in its presence is impressive and our hike into Walpa Gorge with the sheer sides rising up high above us was mesmerizing.

That evening we decided to watch the sunset from one of the lookouts with a bottle of wine before heading on to dinner, which consisted of a smorgasbord of Australian meat.  This area of the country gets about 12 days of rain a year, and that night the skies decided to open up with a thunderstorm.  It was trying to clear up as we headed out the next morning for a sunrise hike around the base of Uluru.

You are still allowed to climb Uluru, weather permitting, even though it is considered a sacred site to the Anangu.  And even though the climb was closed due to rain, we listened to their wishes and opted not to climb it.  Instead, we had a guided tour around the 10km base.  Our guide was able to share stories of Anangu legends as we made our way around the various watering holes and caves.  This also allowed us to view it from all sides and to see up close how the years of erosion has changed her faces (it is actually triangular).

Interestingly, Uluru is considered on giant rock, but the delicate sandstone erodes over the years from the inside out.  And it’s true color is gray.  The red-orange outside, which appears to glow during the rising and setting of the sun, is oxidized iron.  So you could say it is covered in rust.

The rain decided to return that afternoon, so our “sunset tour” that day became more of a waterfall tour.  Because it doesn’t rain a great deal out here, few people get to witness the spectacle of waterfalls streaming down Uluru’s sides.  So we considered ourselves lucky to see the couple that were flowing.  And even though we didn’t get the glowing sunset, we still toasted to her magnificence with some delicious sparkling wine.

It was a short visit to the spectacular Red Center but well worth the journey and expense.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

Our final destination in Australia: Melbourne.  And we couldn’t have timed it any better as we arrived in time for spring racing season.  This week long event has the country all a buzz, and it’s not just about the horses – it’s also about fashion, especially hats.

We were fortunate enough to have Emma as our guide.  Emma and I volunteered together in Peru and she was kind enough to put us up in her place in the beachy suburb of St. Kilda.  We toasted our first night in town over a meal at one of the many trendy restaurants.  And joining us on adventures over the next few days was Dan – a young man from the UK who just arrived for eight months of work and travel.

Saturday was the first of four race days during this week long carnival, so we suited up and made our way to Flemington Race Course.  Dressing up is part of the experience, and Michael and I tried our best with the few clothes we had.  And as my only hat was my sun visor, Emma’s roommate Lauren was kind enough to lend me a “fastenator” – an acceptable alternative to a hat.  These hairpieces are generally made up of ribbons, feathers, and meshing and the ladies (and the occasional man) are extremely creative with them.

As we arrived at Flemington, it seemed as if all of Melbourne had turned out for Derby Day.  And this wasn’t even the biggest race day.  That would be the Melbourne Cup, which occurs on the first Tuesday of November.  It features the “Race that stops the nation” and it really does get the attention of all Aussies for that one race.  It’s so big that it is an official holiday for Melbournians!

Everyone was extremely decked out – even in the general admission picnic areas where we would be holding ground with Emma and her mates.  There was no stop to the flow of champagne or the exchange of money for bets throughout this festive day.  And even though we didn’t win big, we did better than breaking even and had a fabulous time to boot.

And if you are into people watching, you can’t get much better than an event like this.  While everyone around us started off looking so sharp, you could see the affects that all-day champagne had on the crowd.  And to see the amount of trash strewn about, you would hope two days was enough time to clean up for the Melbourne Cup!

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear

Any affects for the day before were washed away with the rain, so we were keen on visiting the Yarra Valley for some wine tasting.  Emma, Dan, Michael and I made up our foursome and even Mr. Darcy, Emma’s adorable King Charles, joined us for the ride.

The Yarra Valley is about an hours drive northeast of Melbourne and produces some delicious reds.  We visited four of the smaller wineries in the area and introduced Dan to his first wine tasting experience.  And back at Emma’s place we enjoyed several of the bottles over dinner.

For our final days in Australia we decided to hit the Great Ocean Road, and Lauren made it a fivesome.  We headed out on Monday evening and partied our way to the town of Lorne for the night.  We shared a lot of great laughs over drinks and woke up to a beautiful morning on the ocean.  Our destination that day would be the famous Twelve Apostles, and we made our way along the windy roads skirting the coastline and through the rolling hills.  The Great Ocean Road is similar to the Pacific Coast Highway in California and is well worth the long and windy drive to get there – especially with good company.

So as the day ended back in St. Kilda, so did our time in Australia.  For a short amount of time we covered a lot of have been constantly on the go.  And there will be no slowing down as we venture off to the South Island of New Zealand.

Visit our Store for Recommended Books & Gear